We never met a cheese plate we didn't love. There's even something so darn satisfying about just the humblest chunk of cheddar and a few Ritz. But. Let us say. A glorious array of textures, conveyance methods—e.g. breads vs. crackers vs. meats, spreads, condiments, interplay of sweets and savories, juicy fruits, briny pickles, and necessary variations on the level of what the French sheep farmer we met in a field in Normandy called "goûte" (which technically just means "tastes" but when paired with the click of his cheek, a little shimmy of his head, and a nod to his stoneware jug of wild fermented cider he indicated to mean "how funky do you like it, chères")? Now that is a thing of rare and true beauty. This lusty tome, written by chef fromager Tia Keenan, is a celebration of plates like those. Three dozen perfectly curated cheese plates with precise, ingenious pairings and over sixty simple recipes for go-alongs that make the unexpected pairings sing. And if you can't find the exact triple-crème she suggests at your local monger (or prefer less "goûte" than an Epoisses)? Full provenance information and tasting notes give substitutions according to availability, season, and preference. It's always cheese o'clock.